The first two things I noticed after opening the nondescript door of Chez Greenberg (5159 Avenue du Parc) were Jake Greenberg himself behind the counter, donning his signature black glasses, and a jar of silver Hershey’s Kisses next to a childhood photo of Greenberg and his brother.
The theme of “family first” carries itself throughout Chez Greenberg’s entire history. Beginning as a COVID project in May of 2020, Jake Greenberg took his father’s smoked salmon recipe and turned it into a booming online business – all with no prior experience in the food industry. Greenberg’s great-grandparents originally came to Canada from Poland, setting up Waxman’s Tuxedo Shop in 1927, where Greenberg worked before the pandemic. He named his viral salmon enterprise Zaidie’s, after his grandparents’ restaurant at the Rabiner’s Hotel in Sainte-Agathe. Once the world opened up, Zaidie’s put down roots in the Ripples Ice Cream shop on rue Jeanne-Mance, out of which they sold their now-iconic smoked salmon, bagel sandwiches, latkes, chowder, and cream cheese schmears. Why an ice cream shop, you may ask? The owner of Ripples, Richard Bernett, happened to be a former employee of the original Zaidie’s restaurant and opened up his space for Greenberg to share.
In 2022, however, Zaidie’s shuttered its (physical and online) doors. In his farewell Instagram post, Greenberg implied that the best was yet to come. This manifested three years later in the form of Chez Greenberg, a brick-and-mortar establishment and the new home of “Bubby’s” kitchen. The restaurant was announced in December 2024 and soft-opened in January. The menu began with Zaidie’s signature fare and is continually expanding, now including smoked salmon chowder, canned drinks, and a full espresso bar. Chez Greenberg is a joint venture alongside Daniel Feinglos of Agriculture du Coin, an aquaponics farm specializing in “urban hydroponic farming, fermentation, and mushroom cultivation,” that will eventually sell its products alongside Greenberg’s salmon and bagels.
As the establishment was founded upon the back of its infamous smoked salmon, it was my duty as a faithful reporter to order it. Alongside a cappuccino, I got their BLC (Bagel, Lox, Cream Cheese): a white sesame bagel schmeared with lemon cream cheese and layered with pink ribbons of lox, thick-cut tomatoes, fresh onions, a mountain of crispy fried potatoes, and a sprinkle of capers. They also offer a BLC Deluxe, which swaps the lemon cream cheese for smoked salmon cream cheese.
The bagel sandwich was, in a word, delightful. The bagel was dense, chewy, and toasted (regarding the controversy over toasting a bagel, I am all for it, contrary to popular opinion). The quality of this bagel was a high medium – not quite to the standard of one fresh out of Fairmount’s oven, but certainly no Tim Hornton’s (sorry, Tim). The crust was densely dotted with sesame seeds, adding a pronounced nuttiness.
The eponymous smoked salmon was truly a delicacy. It was sliced razor-thin, with its edges crisped by the seasoning and the meat perfectly lean and supple. Many a lox is too shy in its fishy flavour; I have often been met with lox that tastes like nearly nothing. This salmon stands apart – the profile strikes a perfect balance, neither too pungently fishy, nor too lacklustre. Greenberg’s inherited smoked salmon recipe is, like all the best things, secret. All that is known is that it’s brined for 24 hours prior to smoking, then donned with a classified seasoning blend and lacquered with maple syrup (making it a thoroughly Canadian affair).
Atop the mille-feuille of fish lies bright, punchy white onions; slabs of tomatoes juicy enough to please Miracle Max; and crispy potato schmutz (latke scraps): all of which marry into a perfect union of textures and flavours. The potato trimmings add a rich caramelized note, while the lemon cream cheese cuts through in a tangy, zesty ray of herbs and sunshine. The restaurant makes “everything but the bagel by hand,” as Greenberg let me know (the bagel’s origins remain unknown). My singular critique would be to add a few more capers, but that may just be my particular affinity for the salty gems.
The cappuccino had a thick foam and was dusted with sweet chocolate powder. The dark-roast espresso kept its nuance of flavour (which is often lost the longer you roast the beans), and its profile balanced well with the sweetness of the chocolate. I will note that it could have been served a bit warmer.
On Instagram, Greenberg stated his intentions for Chez Greenberg as “the kind of place that feels like home, where you’re sitting at the kitchen table, warm and cozy, while your bubby or your mom is cooking up something made with love.” I can affirm that his ambitions have come through in every aspect. Aesthetically, the restaurant is the modern hipster’s paradise (a compliment). An open kitchen is bordered by bar seats where you can watch Adon, Leo, and the other chefs hand-make knishes and latkes. There are hydroponic towers to grow their herbs, scuffed wood floors and exposed ceilings, and a cheeky typewriter below the register. The playlist, decor, and merch curate the perfect point between kitschy nostalgia and something fresh. When he wasn’t working the cash register and espresso bar, Greenberg himself would often call back, “Everyone good?” or roam the floor, chatting up diners and bantering with his crew.
Chez Greenberg is a new kind of local. Built on the heritage of his ancestors, Jake Greenberg is building a space for the Mile End and the greater Montreal community to feel like home. His venture is defined by the strength of his supporters and would not be possible without the love they have for both his salmon and the man himself. I believe the best is yet to come from Bubby’s kitchen.
